101 1300 rebuild part #10: hooking it up

I spent rainy Saturday and Sunday afternoons at the shop this weekend working on all the little loose ends that need to be tied in order to start the engine for the first time.  I started out with painting and installing the starter.  Once I had the starter bolted up and looking good I found the gasket and all the fasteners I set aside for the intake manifold and went to mount it.  The height of the engine didn’t allow the manifold to clear the rail in the engine bay so I had to jack the engine up about an inch on the passenger side and this allowed it to slip by.  Once the manifold was on I found the new thermostat and gasket along with the used thermostat housing I bought from Glenn a few weeks back.  This was all straight forward to install.

img_7638As usual, the finished picture first.  The red in the engine compartment came out good.  Not great, just good.  I think the level of finish in the engine compartment will match the rest of the car if I leave the valve cover alone.

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101 1300 rebuild part 9: It’s in there.

Tonight on my way home from work I made a spur-of-the-moment decision. I decided the engine was going in the Sprint. I have spent 3 weeks talking about it, worrying over getting help, clearing the headers, centering the lot on the engine mounts and a thousand other things, it was time to put it in and tonight was the night.

The catalyst was Conrad telling me he usually put the engine and trans in Sprints separately, that it really ended up being about the same amount of work. I got to the shop, unbolted the transmission from the engine, hoisted it up and dropped it in. It took maybe 15 minutes and I had the motor mounts resting in their cut outs. The only hard part of putting the engine in was I had to remove and then reinstall the exhaust side motor mount to clear the headers.

img_7622Here it goes. A good quality hoist is key so you can lower it really slowly, allowing you to check clearances and guide it. Note the engine mount on the head.

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101 1300 rebuild part 8: back on track

I mentioned in my last post in this series that I broke a motor mount boss stud off, well, it turned out to be a pretty involved process to get it repaired.  When I mentioned the problem to ‘expert’ friends they all said ‘Oh, those studs never want to come out’ well, I broke it off installing  a new one, not removing the old, bent stripped stud.  I’ve broken studs off before on other rebuilds and was ready with the usual arsenal of tricks.

First I tried simply grabbing the remaining piece with Vise-grips, no good.  Then I drilled it out and used an easy out seen below, I couldn’t get a grip on it so I welded a nut to the easy out, the easy out broke at the weld.  I got a bigger easy out and tried to turn it, it was resistant despite a lot of force.  I heated the boss and tried again, this time the corner of the boss cracked.

easy-out-stageHere I am at the first attempt, the easy out wasn’t so easy and even with a nut welded to the end it wouldn’t turn.

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101 1300 engine rebuild part 7: even closer

I had a lot of time this weekend to work on the Sprint engine rebuild and I got a lot done.  I had been stressing out about getting the cam timing set but it turned out to be an easy process.  I still need to get a dial indicator to find TDC perfectly, but it is very close right now.  All I did to set the cam timing is I pulled the adjustment lock bolts out, loosened the vernier adjusters, connected the timing chain and tensioned it, verified TDC and cam marks again then tightened the lot up and reinstalled the adjustment lock bolts.  I put a little red locktite on the big cam nuts and bent the lock tabs over.  I still need to install new cotter pins in the adjustment lock bolts.  Once that was done it was a downhill coast until I broke a stud off …

cam-timing-doneHere it is, cam timing adjusted, everything torqued and cam chain tensioned.  I plan on dousing this all with oil before the initial start-up, probably a few weeks away.

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101 1300 rebuild part 6: getting close

Here it is, probably my last post of 2008. I might have squeezed one more in and wrote about one of the Sprint Veloce Lightweights for sale in Europe right now but I have been busy keeping up the usual holiday schedule and another post doesn’t seem likely.

This post is mainly to catch up on two busy days at the shop trying to get as close as possible to having the Sprint on the road before the end of the year. The first picture in the series is a teaser and should be farther along in the series, but I like it since the Sprint can be seen watching my progress in the background.

img_7036I suppose the color of the turn signal lens could be called ‘impatient Orange’. When this was taken I had just made all the head nuts finger tight after fishing the timing chain up through the timing case.

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Giulietta Sprint 101 1300 engine rebuild part 5: Waterpump

Another pretty part ready for installation.  As with just about everything else relating to this 101 1300 rebuild, the waterpump is not just an off the shelf purchased part that gets to be bolted on.  Theoretically the waterpump is an owner servicable part and rebuild kits are available, but years in a hostile environment means the average, or even above average DIY Alfa owner is going to need help.

I pressed the impeller out of the bearings and found it to be in good shape with little corrosion or wear on the bearing and sealing surfaces.  Once the impeller was out I removed the snap ring that positioned the outer bearing and that is where I got hung up.  I wasn’t sure which way to try and press the bearings out and the special seal with the toleranced mounting flange and spring was all corroded.  At this point I decided I could irrepairably damage the pump if I wasn’t careful so I put all the parts in a plastic bag and delivered it, along with my rod bearings to John Norman Racing where Dan Marvin rebuilt it.

water-pump-rebuilt101 1300 waterpumps are no longer available, so if yours has a problem treat it gently, don’t assume you can buy a new one.

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Giulietta Sprint 101 1300 engine rebuild part 4: Head work

I am trying to figure out how it happened. It was supposed to be so easy, pull the 1750 out, put the 1300 in, scratch my head over some fit problems and voila! I’m back on the road. Okay, so I discovered the 1300 was stuck and suddenly I’m rebuilding it. Parts are bought and so on and then next thing I know I find myself at John Norman racing lugging in my cylinder head. Warped, cracked and 10 thousandths from being too short means I had to buy a different, rebuildable head.

new-valves-decked-headNew valves, guides with stem seals, lots of machine work and all set up and ready to go. I hope I can put the bottom end together to be worthy of this head.

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Sprint Update: Engine compartment refresher part 1.

You may remember I made a plan to detail the engine compartment of the Sprint as part of the engine rebuild. While waiting for the Piston and liner set to arrive, for the head and water pump to be rebuilt and other things I have no control over to get done I tackled the engine compartment. The firewall and inner fenders etc had silver rattle can spray paint over green car paint over the original red. On top of the paint was a lot of gooey oily debris from the last 20,000 miles of commuting and events this car has done.

The first step was to take a picture to see where everything should go when the paint is dry. Next I used Simple green and scrubbed the engine compartment then followed that up with power washing. Once it was dry I removed all the firewall grommets and associated brackets and wet sanded the old paint to make it smooth. I had delusions about going down to the bare metal but this car is sort of an original scruffy car so I decided a quick go over followed by some matched car paint put in a rattle can would be ‘good enough’.

engine-compartment-doneI got your attention with the nice done detail shot of the drivers corner. The brake fluid can leaks so I had bare metal to work with in this area. The smaller grommet brackets are just polished up with mag polish, the larger steering column bracket was bead blasted and painted ‘dull aluminum’ silver. The new rubber grommet for the steering column was $50 AND it required extensive shaping with a razor blade to get it to fit. The throttle linkage was blasted and painted and installed through a new rubber piece.

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Giulietta Sprint 101 1300 engine rebuild part 3: more bottom end work

If you’re not into reading about engine rebuilds the next few posts will probably bore you… I woke up early Sunday and set out for the shop determined to figure out the oil pan set up on the engine I’m building. I bought a 101 1300 Normale oil pan for pretty cheap that was dirty and the windage tray had a lot of surface rust, but I figured I could clean it up and if I got the rust off it would stay off since it will be in an oil bath. I had to look at the parts book illustrations several times before I figured out how the windage tray brackets get installed. The brackets themselves were bent up but I aligned everything with some pliers and I’m now confident I know how it goes together.

1300 windage tray bracketThe brackets are taller on one side than the other, probably to put the windage tray at an angle to direct the oil to the pick up as it drops out of the crank. The ‘cigarette’ seals can be seen here sticking out of the end main cap. These will have to be trimmed before the final assembly.

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Giulietta Sprint 101 1300 Engine rebuild part 2: depths have been plumbed and the ascent begins.

I have a good honest tired accomplished feeling tonight. I spent about 5 hours on the bottom end of the 101 1300 engine that is going back in the Sprint and I got a lot done.

I brought the 1400 kit I bought along with the head to Glenn Oliveria, local Alfa engineer par excellence and driver of a neat column shift 750 series Giulietta Sprint race car, to get some advise. He measured a few things, thought about it and decided the head had been milled .040″ already and would require a .010″ skim, in addition to a valve job, to be ready for action. He explained what was involved to use the 1400 kit, chamfering the head, measuring valve to piston top clearance, measuring tdc combustion chamber volumes to calculate compression and balance the compression across all 4 cylinders. Oh, and peening the rods might not be a bad idea. Long story short, a $1000+ machining bill would be paid to make the 1400 kit work so I am going to go stock 1300cc 9.1 to 1 compression ratio piston liner set for the Giulietta Sprint.

1300 crud trapThese holes are about 2 inches deep. When I first started cleaning this up they were barely visible. Lots of crud had gotten in here over the years. I used a drill bit to help auger it out then washed them out. Nice and clean now.
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