![\"\"](\"http:\/\/giuliettas.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/01\/intake-side-outside-block-nice.jpg\" "\\"intake")
<\/a>Starting from the part you see at the end of the build, the outside. You can see this is a pretty nice block.\u00a0 In better shape than any of the blocks I’ve built up before.\u00a0 I would paint the dipstick tube if I were building this.\n<\/strong><\/p>\n
<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/a>And here is the boss that normally wears the number, 00102, 00120 or otherwise. I am not sure how the subject of forged (00120) versus cast (00102) main caps was addressed as they required being machined together, and for that matter the 00120 block is shorter, requiring a machined to match front cover.\u00a0 My parts book lists different part numbers for Veloce and Normale<\/em> blocks so perhaps they are not related at all.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/strong><\/a>Here’s the exhaust side.\u00a0 On a 1300 there is not much room between the lower header flange and the oilway just below the head gasket sealing edge.\u00a0 I was going to use an after market\u00a0header on my Sprint 1300 but it wouldn’t fit.\u00a0 Threaded hole in the upper right hand corner of the block in this picture is the coolant drain cock pass through.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/a>On late model 1300’s the\u00a0engine number is stamped on the face of the bell housing flange seen here between the middle and upper bell housing mount bolts.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/a>This is the timing case side.\u00a0 Note the part number of the engine casting: 10100-011000.\u00a0\u00a0 When building one of these it’s important to remember the oil seal that seals the opening just above and to the right of the crank opening on mating face.\u00a0 Seal goes in a pocket on the front cover.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/strong><\/a>This is the mounting face that would be under the flywheel, inside the bell housing.\u00a0 The opening is part of the oil galley.\u00a0 I think this cover is there to provide access to clean\u00a0the breather labyrinth\u00a0area out and probably also allows for some machining efficiencies.\u00a0 The studs are all m8 x 1.0 thread.\u00a0 A spacer goes between the bell housing and engine block.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/a>Block and mains are all marked 246, a matched set.\u00a0 Normally the front cover is stamped with this number too, but the front cover from this engine was stamped 500.\u00a0 Did the blank blocks come with matched covers?\u00a0 I assume so…\u00a0 Note presence of factory washers and nuts.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/a>A little better view of the cap stampings.\u00a0 Note the position numbers below the ‘set’ numbers.\u00a0 These correspond to numbers stamped in the block in the same orientation -good idea to match these up. These castings represent\u00a04 part numbers, 101100110700 for the end cap with the cigarette seals that’s visible here.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/a>Here is the sides of the main caps you would see looking past the timing side from number one piston hole to the end cap.\u00a0 Another part number, on the number 4 cap is visible as 101100110500.\u00a0 This casting is the same as the number 2 cap, but once the set has been matched to the block it has a permanent position and orientation.\u00a0 The number 3 with oil pick up mount ears and number 1 both have oil passage ways machined into them and have different part numbers as well. \u00a0Note the casting symbols on the caps -these probably indicate material and who made them.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/a>You can see in this picture the main studs, the positioning collars at the base of the studs that assure the caps are aligned to the block, the oil passages for the odd numbered mains, the dip stick hole at the number 3 position, the thrust washer cut outs on the number 3 main support, the structure of the main webbing and more.\u00a0 I liberated one of the oil pan studs, missing here from the lower right corner,\u00a0for my 00121 build.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/a>I’ve seen blocks with the webbing that supports the mains broken so it’s important to inspect this area on a block you are considering rebuilding.\u00a0 Usually this failure accompanies a broken crank which happens when the radiusing on a regrind of the crank is not done properly. Dominos.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/a>The top side.\u00a0 There are a lot of things that can go wrong in the water jacket area.\u00a0 Studs can corrode, the liner seal bevel where the base of the liner meets the block can be corroded -basically anything in contact with the coolant\/water can corrode.\u00a0 The three holes in the lower right corner are oil passages so it’s important to put sealer on both sides of the head gasket where it goes around these Alfa’s are known for failure associated with oil and water mixing to produce a not-very-effective lubricant.\u00a0 That’s my recently assembled 00121 engine for my SS in the background.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/a>Looking down and in at cylinders 1, 2, and most of 3.\u00a0 The rusty film is residue from the coolant drying out of the engine 30 years ago, and looks strikingly orange\u00a0because for some reason\u00a0a camera flash \u00a0accentuates rust color.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/a>The other end.\u00a0 At the base of the upper left most stud is a little pocket which makes a low point and is opposite the coolant drain cock hole seen in the third picture above.\u00a0 It occurs to me as I’m looking at this that those two blind holes between 3 and 4 (and in the\u00a0previous picture between 1 and 2) are probably to allow cooling water to get nearer the main bearing there since\u00a0they don’t have forced oil lubrication like 1, 3 and 5.<\/strong><\/p>\n